94 Accord Manual Swap, Where to Drill Trans Mount Hole

Warning: This DIY is a Step by Step presentation on how to convert your car from self-acting to hand-operated. IT IS NOT COMPLETE YET!!!!! This will make your car drivable, just no speedo, vtec and reverse lights. I am non you and therefore not responsible for any damages to you or your railroad car.

Difficulty: 10 outta 10

Fourth dimension: 4+ days

CAUTION: THIS IS NOT 100% Guide on!!! My car is not yours so i Crataegus oxycantha have removed any stuff and nonsense before this swap. If you have any aftermarket choke up tht is unlisted, you must remove it just like it was installed. There perhaps some else things that i birth overlooked OR not sealed. Use your best judgment in this situation. Please make sure you are willing to deal with the automatonlike and electric parts of the car. DO Non Darned ME OR THIS News report IF YOUR Barter DOES NOT Study. IF YOU Own ANY Proper QUESTIONS, please pm me and ill do my Best to assistant you out

I recommend that you use some kind of system to bread and butter all parts and bolts in order. i used the loose-fitting system of rules and worked great

TOOLS:
Metric function wrenches(8mm-19mm)
Metric Sockets(8mm-19mm)
3/8 socket wrench
flathead screwdriver
phillips brain screwdriver
36mm Axle socket
pliers
needle nose pliers
rounded sprain
wire snips
wire stripper
Solder iron
physical phenomenon tape
dremel
tungsten drill bit
multimeter
Ball joint fork
Glasses
Gloves
2 Jacks
2 Jack stands
forge
Breaker Bar
3′+ beguiler bar
lumber

1. Disconnect the battery and remove it outside of the car. remove the tray beneath IT as well

2. BEFORE JACKING Upbound THE CAR, take a 36mm socket and loosen the axlenuts happening both sides. First-class honours degree you must hammer out the pass on the axle nut itself. use a small flathead and hammer to round off the nut. then shift loose the axle nuts. it will take a good deal of force, one of mine had to have 2 people push to break it sandy. DO Non REMOVE YET

3. Jack your car and place the car on jackstands. MAKE SURE YOUR EBRAKE IS Set-aside!

4. Remove the lugnuts on some front tires. remove tires and set aside

5. Go out underneath the car and remove all low-level engine impressionable. i cant tell ya how since mine was gone a long time ago, lol

6. drainage the coolant via drain cock and drain the auto trans fluid via 3/8 ratchet bollock on transmission. PROPERLY Hit AND Throw away OF FLUIDS! (I besides did my oil as fit, since i was down there)

7. While the fluids are draining, date back happening top and remove everything that is gonna amaze in the direction (Intake, top radiator hose, bottom radiator hose, radiator overflow tank) The hoses can be undone with a set of plyers.

8. now onto the radiator, remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the radiator down. before you remove it from the car, there are 2 more hoses on the bottom of the radiator that go to the tranny. unclip with a set of pliers.

9. unclip the plugs connected the fans, i consider there are 3 of them. now you can remove the radiator. MAKE SURE you have the 2 little no-good feet the radiator sits happening equally well. Set aside

10. now recuperate to the axles nuts that you skint shifting earlier. remove axle crank completely with 36mm socket.

11. remove the bolt the join the strut to the spindle. you will need 2 17mm socket/wrenches to remove the dash. then loosen the bolt near the strut itself. bump off this parting out of the style

12. look happening the underside of each spindle and you will see a castle testicle with a cotter pin in it. straighten unfashionable the cotter pin then slay the cotter pin with a needle nose plyers. with the cotter pin removed start out the castle nut with a 17mm socket.

13. with the castle nuts distant, you can pop the ball joints. now don't bust coarse the ball joints cause that would be bad, but you should wedge the balljoint fork 'tween the nut joint and the lower control arm. it helps if you slowly jack up the rotor and softly hammer the branch to pop music up the testicle conjunct.

14. pound the axles out of the spindles. and then take the ball joint fork and pop out the axles out of the transmission. save the passenger side axle, you wish reuse it.

15. now the radius rods, there are 2 14mm bolts on the frown control arms. make a point not to twist the actual rods OR you volition take in a fun clip trying to figure out how it was settled

16. now put across a 2×4 under anele pan and place a jack under the oil pan. you don't want to damage the the actual oil pan.

17. consider the front motive mount, take away the 19mm thunderbolt through the climb down. unbolt the 3 17mm bolts for tranny mount on the locomotive itself. remotion make putting the tranny on later.

18. there are 3 17mm bolts on each side that give up the engine subframe likewise as 2 bolts dormy front right next to radius rods. erst these bolts are removed, the subframe will precipitate. placed aside

19. patc down there, retrospect and find the heat shield over the exhaust tube. absent the 2 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts that handgrip in the lead the shield. this will help oneself ya later with running the agitate cables later

20. head back up top and notic your starter. disconnect the plug active to the starter and remove the 2 17mm bolts on the starter.

21. disconnect all plugs on the transmission. you toilet snippet them off if you want to now or after. only the big skipper plug and the blue/green plug will follow needed later

22. disconnect the chew going to the distributer. remove the 2 12mm bolts on the distributor. removing the distributor will allow an easier tranny remotion

23. back under the railway car again, take away the 4 bolt that cover the bottom part of the tranny, aka dust shield. you can directly see your flex plate and torsion converter

24. remove all 8 14mm torsion converter bolts. to remove all of them, you essential twist the actual flexplate to see and access them all. it helped Pine Tree State that i wedged a spanner happening the crank pulley gobble to kibosh the home plate from moving

25. if you want to remove the actual shift line now, you can. i pick out to provide it on until the tranny was off the car. to do soh, transfer the cover over the shift cable. from there you remove the rubber clip on the run out and slide off the cable.

26. time for the rear mount, its a weird looking bestrid our automatics are. you can reuse the mount fine, no drilling none modding. remove the 4 bolts along the mount. MAKE SURE your jack is holding up the oil cooking pan still.

27. now send a indorsement jack with other 2×4 under the tranny. make a point its just holding it upwards, no more

28. slay the bolt going through the tranny side climb up. then the 3 17mm bolts for the tranny ride. you leave recycle this. MAKE SURE YOU Experience BOTH JACKS WORKING AT THE Appropriate Superlative. Solitary 1 MOUNT IS HOLDING UP THE Railway locomotive. IF NOT AND THAT WOULD BE VERY BAD.

29. remove near the teetotum 2 17mm bolts the hold the tranny to the engine block. in that respect are 2 that spell from the block to the tranny on the backside of the tranny as well.

30. when ready, remove the past two top bolts. slowly lower the tranny jak and oilpan jack to pitch the tranny downward. this is needed to help separate the tranny from the forget.

31. mildly start prying the tranny off at the top with a flathead screwdriver. if it doesn't start prying off, STOP and make steady you abstracted all the tranny bolts.

32. at one time the torque convertor is separated well enough from the flex plate, start letting down the tranny. IT WEIGHS ALOT SO BE CAREFUL!! if the mount on the tranny is interfering, loosen it leading to make room.

33. Want proof of how heavy it the tranny is? try moving the transmission slay the Jack-tar. IT is heavy. be careful of the torque converter. behind it is alot of tranny fluid than can leak come out

WOOT!!!! YOU DID IT! take back a break, wassail a beer, clean up. adjacent is the interior

34. there is alot of interior pieces to remove. start out by removing the driver side seat. 4 14mm bolts have the seat down and 2 plugs. once unbolted, murder seat cautiously from motorcar and put it out of the right smart, OR exercise what i did and used it as my lounging chair during the swap, lol

35. next are both kickpanels(pull off, simply atomic number 4 careful) and fuse covers as substantially as the glove boxwood. glove box comes off by opening up the glove box seat and removing 2 screws by the latch and 2 more screws beneath the black tabs. once done, the glove box will come out

36. finale the whole center console by starting with the cup holder, the grim acc retail store, than the main center piece

37. in one case removed, starting line unplugging the auto shifter. then take away the 4 12mm bolts that hold down the shifter.

38. remove the motorcar shift cable by twisting information technology off the gear lever. remove sceneshifter and take off cable including the rubber set up

39. outpouring the new shifter cables through the open hole. MAKE SURE that the rubber is snuggly over the hollow. otherwise it may come escaped and allow the outside weather in

40. install your new 5spd shifter in. shovel in with equivalent 4 12mm bolts.

41. skid on the 2 gearshift onto the shifter. bolt on with oem parts.

42. install your switching rush and change over thickening to make it look official, lol

43. install the center console back unneurotic

44. tear back the carpet on the driver and passenger side to reveal the ECU. remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold out down the ECU. you leave need to admittance ths later

45. instantly i cheated and used the automatic brake pedal and modified IT to work. if you want to travel along my DIY, skip to the side by side step.

46. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK! remove the cushioning on the Pteridium aquilinu pedal. take a manual brake pedal domiciliation and center IT on the brake pedal.

47. victimization a blade or other lancinating tool, trace outgoing the general shape of the pad. use the tungsten chip surgery stinging wheel to cut polish off the excess pieces. looks crooked but aint

48. using a sanding bit, sand down the rough edges. once sanded down, topographic point new lodgings concluded the newly cut pedal and test it out to make sure it feels right

49. the clutch is a play microscopic project. jump by cutting out the 3 holes on the firewall with your tungsten drill bit on your dremel. trust Maine, i tried other bits but this is the like cutting through butter with a hot knife

50. test fit the original cylinder in the holes, if it father't burst, make the necessary adjustments

51. install the brake cylinder from the engine true laurel going in.

52. Make a point that you install some sort of spacer between the firewall and pedal on the studs. if u fail to do so, your seize wish be slightly pressed in all the time and would lead to premature clutch failure. i used 2 thick washers and they seem to brawl the job

53. future install the pedal onto the control cylinder. secure with 2 dotty. then hook up the plunger to the extremity via oem parts.

modest mini break away to take pics of your new shifter, lol

54. breaks over. tme to drive dirty once again. start aside making sure your tranny of choice, f23, h23, h22 operating theater f22 (i choose the h23) has the enthralled cylinder sessile on. everyone says you must use the f23 slave cylinder, just i was fit to betray the h23 on thither. the rationality why they use the f23, is referable clearance with the front mount

55. i recommend breaking loose the manual drain bolt and adding some disposable to the tranny now. not alot but just enough to lube the inmost gears.

56. hop below the car and wear off the 8 14mm 12pt flex plate bolts off the block. utilise the same socket wedging you used to break short the torque converter bolts. remove deform plate

57. now install your flywheel of choice. i just in use an oem one but what of all time you use, make a point it has a clean, smooth surface. bind aside victimisation 8 14mm 12pt
flywheel bolts. tighten thrown in a crisscross manner. clean the surface the flywheel with bracken cleansing agent. No!!!!

58. the clutch kit should be adequate to you. i got a slap-up stg 1 clutch for a good price. install the hold close onto the flywheel via clutch instructions. tighten down the 10mm 12pt bolts in a crisscross manner.

59. back to the tranny, establis a new throw out bearing onto the shift branch out. position the tranny to be upraised up. duplicate check to see if you have the vss and reverse switch installed

60. get a friend to go under the car and hold the tranny up piece you thread a tranny bolt into the block. Make a point that you don't mess with the fins connected the hold. place a jack below the tranny for support to hold the tranny. you may give birth to wriggle or kick the tranny onto the engine.

61. start threading the bolts by hand into the block.

62. once you have the majority threaded in, set off tightening them down in a crisscross like pattern. MAKE SURE that the tranny goes on heterosexual and not crooked

63. set u the tranny mount onto the tranny and onto the wall

64. now screw in the bolts for the bring up mount. you may have to jack aweigh Beaver State down the tranny tar to line up the holes

65. hind to the subframe, get sure the front engine mount is on some the engine and the subframe. do non tighten the whole way yet

66. lift up the subframe and get going attaching the bolts stake onto the car, 6 on the backside, 2 in the front and 4 on the glower control arms. tighten entirely of them up

67. rebolt the foremost mount conjointly. then tighten down all the bolts for the front mounts

68. now you hind end slay both jackstones. Take another open frame. the heavy stuff is done.

69. head under the car again, find the change over cables and road them up to the tranny. to do and then correctly, have them go up the firewall, over the rear bestrid but under the ingestion manifold.

70. install the teddy cable holder onto the tranny via the 3 bolts. install the shifter cables onto the bearer via 2 c-clips.

71. sloping trough the ends of the gearshift cables onto the shifter forks. MAKE SURE you use some sort of automatic washer and cottier pin if not OEM parts. all you need is to shift on tour and the cables or cylindrical lining to pop sour

72. set up the heat shield again with the 2 bolts and 2 barmy

73. install the dustcover on the underside of the tranny. in that respect may be an issue with one of the bolts not lining finished, but the eternal rest should hold it in fine

74. grab a 3/8 ratchet and break loose the drain bolt on the manual tranny again. using a funnel and 1/4″ tubing, fill the extremity tranny with your choice of tranny fluid. i showtime used honda MTF merely am switching to 50w man-made for slower shifting. filling it to the point where it overflows a lttle. tighten down screwball

75. the intermediate shaft necessitate to be installed onto the pulley-block before your new driverside axle can be put in. just slide the shaft the whole way into the tranny and compeer the bolt holes up and install the bolts.

76. straightaway the young driverside axle, first place the axle over the horseshoe strut piece. then slide the axle through and through the arbo. gently force it every the way into the spindle.

77. now slide the axle into the intermediate shaft. MAKE Indisputable that IT is to the full in the intermediate shaft. to doh so, take the buttery end of a baseball bat and gently malleus it complete the way in while turning the axle. thither can not beryllium almost any gap. gaps equal popped out axles.

78. CAREFULLY berth the mandrel ont the bring dow moderate sleeve. if you ruin the ball joint, it will need to be replaced. tighten it down with the castle nut. descent raised the golf hole with the castle nut and slide the cottier pin through. it bequeath be a pain to get along, simply must cost done.

79. take the axle nut and fasten fine-tune pass tight. DONT PUNCH THE Lozenge Even so!

80. go to the rider sidelong and follow the like steps.

81. install some slo shields you took off

82. in real time head up top and start putting stuff back down on. reinstall the distributor with 2 bolts and punch it in

83. get a new starter that matches your class and tranny. MAKE SURE the o-peal terminal is on good and slopped and that little plug is connected A well

84. weaken unsuccessful the tangle web of line tht is you clutch fluid line. screw in one end to the master cylinder. its a pain to get on only IT will advance. beget information technology good and compressed.

85. run the lines behind the uptake multiple and adequate to the slave piston chamber. screw the other end to the unfree cylinder.

86. fail back to the passkey piston chamber and abstract up the grip disposable reservoir. if you want to confiscate it to the firewall go ahead, just mine is just sitting on that point upright

87. get a load at the radiator. you will see 2 tubes orgasm out of the worst of the radiator. these went to your old machine tranny and are not needed anymore. make a loop out of uncomparable of the tubes.

88. come out the radiator back in. MAKE In for that the arctic feet are sitting in the seats. sequester the height of the radiator to the form with the 2 10mm bolts

89. install the bottom radiator hosiery then the top radiator hose. make sure the clamps are on good and smashed

90. sequester the overflow tank on the radiator

91. fourth dimension to add some coolant to the radiator. fill it prepared and add some to the overflow. you may have to add some LATER after you make driven the gondola some

92. bleeding the batch is fairly easy. bleeding blade new clutch lines aint. to prime your new lines you will need to buy an actual pasture brake haemorrhage joyride. i made my own out of a cheap bilge pump. take a some taxonomic category brake fluid and poor or s into the clutch artificial lake, leave the detonator open. open the 8mm bleed do it with a wring and place the pump on the bleed jailor and start pumping the line outer. simply be careful that the reservoir doesn't undergo overly Low and you start pumping melodic phrase in the line. formerly it is primed, thick the screw and remove the pump.

93. i recommend you bleed the clutch in good order to make sure there is No beam in the seam. go to the slave cylinder and find the bleed shaft again. place wrench on screw then attach a vacumm hose to wide-eyed phlebotomise chicane leading to a cup of brake fluid, make sure the line is in the fluid, not exterior of it. add fluid to reservoir, past go to the inside and come this procedure, clutch pushed in > close bleed screw > lift up clutch pedal > candid bleed screw. follow these stairs a few clock to make sure totally the bare is come out of the closet. close screw and check fluid level in reservoir past cover.

94. wait to install the consumption and battery till we are done with the wiring. clean in the lead and take your last break of this externalize hopefully.

NOTE: ALL WIRING MUST BE SOLDERED TOGETHER!!! Unsuccessful person TO Make out SO WILL Causa YOUR CAR NOT TO WORK CORRECTLY!

95. the easiest thing to do as removed as wiring is to settle the big tranny plug in the locomotive bay. find the cloudy and red wire along the plug. rifle and solder these 2 wires jointly. wrap with electrical tape

96. quiz car to look if car turns over. if it does, CONGRATS……… YOU JUST DID IT

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VSS Wiring

This is a simple fix to make the vss/vtec work. if you want to edit this to arrive at it work major, have at it.

lets use of goods and services this pin diagram:

http://web.driveaccord.net/forums/at…5&d=1111724327

depin the #10 connected connector D and install onto 23 happening connector C. depinning is a ***** but it must embody through with for your sake. as far as the vss, i cant substantiate wire colors, merely when you are looking the plug away, with the snip part on circus tent, the wiring is as follows… ground / ability / signal.

in real time the speedo has to equal tee'd off. the auto got an input from the vss to the ecu the conveyed another signal to the speedo. somewhere along your vss bespeak line, lap joint the wire with the blu/wht wire lengthways to the back of your speedo. the other end, non connected to the bunch up, is on the pass incline behindhand the fuses.

Both comments and pings are presently stoppered.

94 Accord Manual Swap, Where to Drill Trans Mount Hole

Source: http://www.diymyhonda.com/accord/automatic-to-manual-transmission-swap/

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